The story behind the story. How I came to live in Cairo & set up ARC - Arts Residency Cairo.
Tuesday, 2 March 2010
Bawabs, balconies and Day 2 in the New Place
Wellllllll... I am shattered. I need B Vits!!! Shelagh post me some asap! So.. I moved into the new place about 1am and didn't get to sleep until 6am, then had to be up the next day early as Madame Afaf (landlady - and her name means Chastity..) informed me the telephone man would be coming anytime between 8am and 6pm. So.. after less than 2 hrs sleep I put 'answering the door clothes' on (remember.. it's Egypt.. one has to present decorum)and then got confused about 'was that the door or wasn't it?' as my doorbell happens to be the sound of birdsong.. low birdsong.. in one short low flush. On top of this there is a lot of real birdsong from the front of the house as I am on the 7th floor and look out over some very lovely trees. Put into the mix that at the best of times I have a certain phone phobia, then bring in general artistic neurosis.. Madame Afaf then phoned to say the telephone man would be on his way.. this was at about 1pm.. a few hours having gone by of lying on bed in clothes trying to discern real birds from electronic ones. Finally at about 3pm the telephone man arrived along with the bawab Nabil (whose name means Noble.. and I realise later should not have accompanied him in and was only there to snoop.. as they do..). The telephone man did very little.. he complained and looked sulky.. and then the bawab said they had to go in another of the rooms. I tried to act composed.. for mon amour was the bedroom and for anyone reading this who doesn't know the Egyptian ways; an Egyptian man in the bedroom of a woman is considered VERY non-decorum.. to the point of some landlords forbid this unless the couple are married. Yes, welcome to medieval Cairo.. This alone is an issue.. and even though nothing has actually been said to me prior to taking the flat.. I know enough about the culture to try not to 'flaunt' the fact that I have an amour. Sooooo.. heart beating I asked them 'fein?' (where?) and to my relief they said 'shumel' (left .. and opposite my bedroom) But the whole time I was thinking 'but there's a wire in my room too.. what if, what if..' and when they went back into the living room I went to mon amour and said 'they are looking in the rooms'. When I came back out of my room I saw that they had returned to the room opposite and the bawab was sat on the bed looking directly at me and therefore had most probably heard me talking to 'someone'. Anyway, finally they left, having done a total patchy job on the phone and only fixing one socket which is in the spare room and therefore now needs a very long cable. When I returned to the bedroom, it was in darkness and I couldn't see mon amour anywhere.. then I realised he had hidden himself on the balcony.. ohhhhh.. what will become of us :-))
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